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water doesn't have Terps...
What are ';Terps'; and why put them in henna?
Many essential oils contain terpenes which are hydrocarbon solvents. Hennotannic acid, the dye in henna, is hydrophobic rather than hydrophilic, thus water is not the most effective means to release and darken henna. One of the most useful and least harmful of these terpenes is terpineol, found in high concentrations in Tea Tree, Cajeput and Ravensara essential oils. In every test we did, the addition of these essential oils made a paste that stained quickly, and darkened rapidly. Pure terpineol makes dark henna stains comparable to these essential oils. Essential oils lacking terpineol and similar terpenes do NOT improve stain.
Other hydrocarbon solvents have been used to create quick dark stains, but some of these are very toxic. Gasoline, kerosene, and turpentine darken henna stains but are very dangerous to use!
Terpenes with low toxicity, but which facilitate henna stains are terpineol, geraniol, cineol, cedrol, linalool. Eugenol facilitates dark henna stains but can irritate skin. Camphene facilitates dark henna stains but can cause intoxication or nausea. Less helpful are eucalyptol, and citronellol.
Essential oils that have reliably high levels of the safest, most useful monoterpene alcohols are: Tea Tree, Cajeput, and Ravensara.
Tea tree essential oil is the most reliable ';terp'; because the Australian government regulates the level of terpineol in it. Aromatherapy grade Cajeput and Ravensara do just as good a job, and smell better. Some Tea Tree essential oils can have a hellacious funk.
Essential oils that are nearly as good are: Lavender, Geranium, Cardamom, Cypress, and Cypress Tips.
Essential oils that have lower levels of effective terpines, but which still darken henna somewhat are: Neroli, Pine, Juniper, Thyme, Rosemary and Marjoram.
Helpful oils that can cause skin irritation which should be used sparingly are Clove Bud oil, and Black Pepper oil. Citrus oils are phototoxic, therefore are not suitable for outdoor festival use. Camphor is an excellent darkener, but it is a transdermal intoxicant and can make the hennaed person ill. Cinnamon oil and Clove oil can cause dermatitis, so should be avoided.
Use aromatherapy grade essential oils! These are safest and most effective!
Should you use ';Mehndi Oil';?
Some ';Mehndi Oil'; products are useful ';terps'; but many of them are unregulated, and have unlisted ingredients that may give you a rash or make you sick. These can include camphor, kerosene, lamp oil, or other adulterants. Don't put something on your skin that doesn't have an ingredient list!
Should you use ';Eucalyptus Oil';?
There are 700 varieties of Eucalyptus tree, and many different ways of distilling Eucalyptus oil. A few of these products darken henna safely and effectively, but most DO NOT and are a waste of money. Some products marked Eucalyptus oil have unlisted ingredients and are downright dangerous. If you want to use Eucalyptus oil, buy a little and try it first before buying a lot. Aromatherapy grade Eucalyptus Globulus is your best bet.
What is NOT happening with ';Terps';?
These oils are not ';warming'; the skin or increasing circulation. Ginger essential oil, specifically used to warm skin and increase circulation has little or no effect on the stain results .... ginger has none of the useful terpenes. It is not the ';oil'; that is creating this effect. Plain oil, such as olive oil, has no effect on the stain. Essential oils distilled from resinous plants which have none of the useful terpenes have little or no darkening effect ... myrrh is one such. These oils are not opening pores, or doing anything mystical. These are simply solvents working in the henna paste to very effectively make the henna dye available, and facilitate a very fast oxidation (darkening of the henna stain).
Rubbing terps into the skin before and after applying henna produces no stain improvement.
The monoterpene alcohol has to be mixed into the paste a few hours before application. Pastes applied immediately after the ';terps'; were added did not stain as well as those left for an hour. The best stains came from paste that had ';terps'; mixed in from 4 to 48 before applying when left at 80F.
So, to summarize ';What are ';Terps'; doing and Why should you use them?';
Henna is hydrophobic, not hydrophilic. That means that henna dye will become more available in a monoterpene alcohol than in water or lemon juice. If you ';terp'; your henna, you will get more dye out of the henna and into your skin. Your skin will have more dye in it, and therefore be a more intense color. ';Terps'; make far darker stains on torsos, arms and legs. If you use ';terped'; henna on a hot day, you may get dark stain quickly, in 2 hours, and you won't need to wrap oWhat is the cheapest essential oil for use in henna?
Tea tree works well, if you don't add the terpenoid oil you will not get as dark stains or nearly as long lasting.
You can just add water but it won't work as well as when you add a good oil like http://www.hennacaravan.com/ they advise.
They are professional artists and know what they are doing.
i wouldn't go cheap vs making sure that you are using a quality product that will not give you an allergic reaction.
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